Dr.Harvey’s Review

My dogs loved it I must admit, especially the tripe.
If you are ‘hell bent’ on feeding your dog ‘commercially produced’ dog food, then Harvey’s is no worse than the rest.
But… don’t let them try and fool you into believing that they are better than the rest. (and believe me they will)

Dr.Harvey himself is a chiropractor, you know the one’s that have as many advertisements in the yellow pages for auto accident victims as lawyers do. That is a red flag right there.

Yes, they have their own factory/plant and they package all their ingredients there.            The ‘only’ ingredient that they get from another manufacturer is their freeze dried ‘MEAT’
(I got this straight from the president and wife of Dr.Harvey)

Now, they will tell you like all of the other ‘holistic’ company’s (allegedly) that they add no hormones, no chemicals blah…blah… and they do not.

However….(drum roll please) if they are purchasing meat or grain or ‘what-not’ from another manufacturer/plant they legally do not have to list what the ‘original’ manufacturer they purchased from did or ‘added’ to the original meat product.
Dr.Harvey’s in fact get their ‘freeze dried’ meat the same way the rest do.

(freeze drying is a process that is much healthier than the rest…..if the meat source does not originally come from a plant that uses ‘roadkill’ for meat yummmy!)

I am not looking for a lawsuit so I am not going to spell it out…

R_E_N_D_E_R_I _N_G plant. Oopsey my fingers slipped.


It will be denied….they have ‘affidavits’ from the company ‘Freeze-dry foods’ that state they do not use the rendering process…(big whoopy deal) Ontario,Canada also has a red light district where prostitutes are left alone, so are pot smokers! Did I forget to mention Dr.Harvey’s uses a Canadian company and one in the states too, but the Canadian one is their ‘main meat source’.
So not only do they get suppliers from another country to save $bucks$ and further kill our economy, It is a plant that renders.

How do I know?? I am Canadian from Ontario and have a few connections there that certain a certain company was unaware of when they fed me their line of B.S………

More on the my Personal conversations and e-mails with the president of Dr.Harvey’s


State tuned More to come tomorrow!!!!

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Castor & Pollux Natural Ultramix dog food review

Let me start this by saying that as many types and grades of dog food as there are, I’ve probably tried them all!

I stumbled upon the Castor & Pollux Natural Ultramix while looking for a dog food that would have a minimal amount of allergens as well as having a holistic approach. I wanted to have meats as the first and main ingredients as well as the ability for the food to improve on not only my dogs’ health, but also on their skin and coat (very important since I have a coated breed).

This dog food has an estimated 43% protein as the basis for the food. This is exactly what I wanted! Something more meat based which was closer to a carnivore’s natural diet. it certainly doesn’t hurt that this is a Whole-Dog-Journal.com recommended food.

The dogs eat this stuff up. They love it. The appeal to humans is nice as well. This stuff is loaded with dried banana chips and dried carrot pieces, among other things. Add a little warm water and watch the dogs go wild.

But what does it do for the dogs’ health? Well, my dogs don’t have flaky skin anymore. Their coats are shiny and seem to grow quite quickly. I feel confident feeding this kibble and the dogs really like it. For the minimal grooming I’ve been doing on their coats, the shelties still look great and their coats shine like it’s freshly polished. Best of all, my dogs aren’t getting rid of all the good food via natural elimination. There are fewer piles in the yard which certainly makes ME happy! This goes to show that the dogs are actually using the food they’re getting instead of it running right through them.

If you’d like more info about this food, please visit the link below.

http://www.castorpolluxpet.com/store/natural_ultramix/natural_ultramix_adult_canine_formula

Dog Food Analysis & Grading


To grade any dog food using this dog food comparisons technique, you need to start with the list of ingredients (it’s fairly easy to find an ingredient list for any particular food on the manufacturers website, or use the one on your dog food bag etc.)

Start with a grade of 100 points, then …

For every listing of “by-product”, subtract 10 points

For every non-specific animal source (“meat” or “poultry”, meat, meal or fat) reference, subtract 10 points

If the food contains BHA, BHT, or ethoxyquin, subtract 10 points

For every grain “mill run” or non-specific grain source subtract 5 points. If the same grain ingredient is used 2 or more times in the first five ingredients (i.e. “ground brown rice”, “brewer’s rice”, “rice flour” are all the same grain), subtract 5 points

If the protein sources are not meat meal and there are less than 2 meats in the top 3 ingredients, subtract 3 points

If it contains any artificial colorants, subtract 3 points

If it contains ground corn or whole grain corn, subtract 3 points

If corn is listed in the top 5 ingredients, subtract 2 more points

If the food contains any animal fat other than fish oil, subtract 2 points

If lamb is the only animal protein source (unless your dog is allergic to other protein sources), subtract 2 points

If it contains soy or soybeans, subtract 2 points

If it contains wheat (unless you know that your dog isn’t allergic to wheat), subtract 2 points

If it contains beef (unless you know that your dog isn’t allergic to beef), subtract 1 point

If it contains salt, subtract 1 point

Extra Credit:

If any of the meat sources are organic, add 5 points

If the food is endorsed by any major breed group or nutritionist, add 5 points

If the food is baked not extruded, add 5 points

If the food contains probiotics, add 3 points

If the food contains fruit, add 3 points

If the food contains vegetables (NOT corn or other grains), add 3 points

If the animal sources are hormone-free and antibiotic-free, add 2 points

If the food contains barley, add 2 points

If the food contains flax seed oil (not just the seeds), add 2 points

If the food contains oats or oatmeal, add 1 point

If the food contains sunflower oil, add 1 point

For every different specific animal protein source (other than the first one; count “chicken” and “chicken meal” as only one protein source, but “chicken” and “fish” as 2 different sources), add 1 point

If it contains glucosamine and chondroitin, add 1 point

If the vegetables have been tested for pesticides and are pesticide-free, add 1 point

Scoring

94-100+ = A
86-93 = B
78-85 = C
70-77 = D
69 = F

Thoughts On Homemade Dog Food-A post you do not want to miss!!!!And Yes, I am an idiot!!

A couple of days ago I wandered into a blog talking about homemade dog food.

I scanned through half interested thinking that here was someone else feeding their poor dogs the same junk many of us feed ourselves.

IE: fast foods, foods slathered in butter and grease, foods that have the absolute life ‘fried’ right out of them.

Being the know-it-all that I am ….(and I am a ‘bad’ one…ask my fiance!!) I decided to leave a scathing comment as I peered down my nose at this woman’s silly little post.

Fortunately (and much to my embarrassment) I had to go back and actually ‘read’ this post in it’s entirety, as not to contradict myself or look stupid in my remarks. ( I am refraining at this point from saying ‘how’ stupid I looked)

Big fat ‘whoops’ on my part if I had bothered to read closer the first time, I would have seen that what she was saying actually made perfect sense.

I changed my comment to one of agreement and admitted my ‘almost mistake’ and forewarned her to take heed of others like myself, those guilty of reading posts merely halfway.

I did not receive a response for a few days…I pretty much figured I had irritated her. (I have an uncanny habit of doing that) But lo and behold I returned yesterday and boy did I get taken down a notch or two or three…lol

I am posting her reply which is actually an entirely new post to address some questions that had been brought up in comments from her original post (sheepish grin .. 🙂 insert here)

This is an extremely informative and well thought out post, one of the best I have yet to read. Her homework has been done and she knows her stuff get ready for a ‘great’ read….

Thanks again Michelle (she has 2 ‘L’s….do not confuse us) and please accept my humblest apologies. (HEY….I am trying to be humble..that counts, right?!!

More Thoughts on Homemade Dog Food…

Posted by workingcollies under Border Collies, Homemade Dog Food

Clasidog raised some good points about dog feeding that I’d like to address further with a new post.

First, I think it’s important to acknowledge that nobody really knows what to feed dogs. We lack scientific data and studies to guide us. Even some of AAFCO’s guidelines are based on dubious research, such as studies on hogs and mice, conjectured to the needs of the domestic dog and cat. And, many of AAFCO’s studies are based more on what’s required for the bare minimum of survival, not necessarily what’s optimal for ideal health. Most of their studies are also very short-term, just a few weeks or months, there is not much good evidence available on long-term health affects of any particular dog diet. And this is where nutrition’s affects are most important: we may feel OK eating fast food burgers for a few days, but if we eat them daily for a lifetime, we know we’re headed for trouble!

Not to mention, I think we can conclude that what’s good for one individual may not be good for the next. Even if we did have plentiful research, it would still be impossible to quantify the optimal “complete and balanced” diet for an entire population-just look at the diversity of opinions on human diets! So, it is my feeling that we are all left wondering how to best nourish dogs in general, and our own unique dogs. Thus we must develop our own conclusions and assumptions, and this is very subjective indeed!

Here are some of the conclusions that I have come to, personally. First, I have come to believe that dogs are not very much like their wolf ancestors at all, but instead are a species that is specifically evolved and adapted to scavenge off of human society’s waste. A variety of readings and personal experience have led me to this conclusion, but my favorite book on the subject is Raymond & Lorna Coppinger’s Dogs: A Startling New Understanding of Canine Origin, Behavior & Evolution.

Scavengers, by nature, are adept at thriving off of very poor nutrition sources and a wide range of foodstuffs. Many people try to mimic a carnivore diet for their domestic dogs, but I think this may be misguided—there is much evidence to suggest that dogs have an evolutionary history of, and show mostly physical traits of a scavenger, not a carnivore. So, a wolf’s nearly pure-protein diet may actually not be what dogs are designed by nature to eat. On the contrary, feral dogs do quite well in South America, Africa and even here in the U.S., living off of and in garbage dumps.

I believe this reality can give us comfort that we almost can’t go wrong, from a nutritional standpoint, in feeding dogs. Just about anything we offer them should be better than a scavenger’s native diet, which is literally trash! But, of course, we don’t want our pets to merely survive, we’d rather they live optimally. I feel that the most important way to ensure that each individual gets what his unique body needs is variety, high quality, highly digestible, and natural food. So, that’s what I shoot for when feeding my dogs.

It may be important to distinguish between “leftovers” and “table scraps.” The former, I would define as food that I would normally eat, so is fit for human consumption. I eat a reasonably healthy diet, so anything that’s left over from my table is probably pretty good for the dogs, too. Though, I do feel that dogs can tolerate a much higher bacteria load than humans can, their stomach is much more acidic, and their digestive tract much quicker to do its work. So I would be comfortable feeding my to dogs food which I may consider a day or two too old for my own touchy human digestive system!

Table scraps, on the other hand, I would define as the byproducts of the household kitchen that are considered not fit for human consumption- loads of grease, fat, trimmings, spoiled vegetables, or other raw materials that we reject during our food preparation process. This definition, I think, is what veterinarians have tried to preach for decades, that “table scraps” are not too good for dogs. If you absolutely wouldn’t eat it on your hungriest day, why would you give it to the dog?

Yet, I would suggest that most commercial dog food is made from just that—byproducts of the human food chain. That’s what makes it affordable, despite all the industry that goes into processing, packaging, shipping and marketing it! How else can you buy such materials for a few dollars per pound, dry weight, unless it is truly junk?

When you consider how costly decent beef jerky is-about $20/pound at my local butcher- it becomes plain: dehydrating quality fresh ingredients renders a very costly product, by weight. If dog food is only $2/pound dry weight, the vendor must have had to pay pennies per pound for the original ingredients to still make a profit. What, I ask, can you get for pennies per pound, even buying by the ton? Certainly not quality muscle and organ meat! Not even good cereal grains come that cheap!

So, I might assert, if you are paying less than $10 per pound dry weight for your pet food, you might wonder what it was made from that they could sell it to you, at a profit, for so little. And even if you are paying that much, it would be hard to know if the ingredients warrant that, or if the manufacturer just has you fooled, and they are making a vast profit off the same waste everyone else is marketing. But, since we know dogs are evolved to survive on garbage, it’s no wonder that many dogs manage to do alright on re-marketed byproducts on the store shelf. I think that traditional commercial pet food is the ultimate testament to how thrifty the domestic dog really is.

The other thing that I think needs differentiation is: fat. Because we humans are particularly vulnerable to getting fat from eating fat, we tend to assume the same is true for dogs. And, veterinarians report seeing cases of pancreatitis in dogs whose well-meaning owners top off every pet meal with a big dollop of cooked grease from the kitchen.

Yet, from what I’ve read, dogs metabolize fat into energy much more successfully than humans, so they actually can handle, and do well on, a fairly high-fat diet. And, I think the key is that most of the fat should be in its native form- either raw animal fat from healthy animals, or vegetable oil- not kitchen grease. I actually seek out higher fat meat for my dogs, and add oil to every meal. I believe this keeps their skin and coat vital, which is critical to overall health.

My mother remembers in her childhood, commercial dog food was just becoming popular, but her family couldn’t afford it. They always fed their family dog “extras” from the kitchen, and he was in optimal health and lived a long life, even after having recovered from contracting distemper as a pup! My now-deceased great uncle also recalled to me that in the “olden days” they used to home-prepare all of the food for their kennel of home-bred hunting dogs, and were very successful with this. I have also read many writings from dog kennel managers in the early 1900’s describing the meals they prepared for their show dogs—all homemade from locally available ingredients!

Commercial dog food has only been “on the scene” since about the Fifties, and only ever became wildly popular here in the U.S.And, we can hardly claim that dogs nowadays in our country are healthier on their commercial diets- quite the contrary. More dogs exhibit signs of disease than ever- allergies, dental disease, behavior problems, etc. Ian Billinghurst, in his book Give Your Dog a Bone, asserts that the U.S. has much more incidence of chronic canine disease than in Australia, where commercial pet food never really caught on.Not only is most commercial food made from poor ingredients, it is over-processed, with too many chemical preservatives and non-digestible vitamins added at the end of manufacture. And, most foods contain the same 10-20 basic ingredients, there is little variety. I just can’t see how this is an optimal way to feed anything, as compared to using a range of dozens of fresh, whole-food ingredients.

So, it seems, what comes around goes around, and many people are returning to just making their own dog food and seeing how well dogs do on basic food: meat, vegetables, grain. I think that pet food manufacturers have done an excellent job of marketing the idea that we’re incapable of making balanced meals for our dogs. Even most veterinarians seem to buy this logic (though, it’s possible this happens because dog food companies often fund or provide professors to teach nutrition in veterinary colleges- a sad conflict-of-interest situation).

If you fear this same fear, I would pose this question: do you feel qualified to raise and nourish a human child? How do you know he gets enough niacin each day? Vitamin C? What form of Vitamin C? What is the calcium-to-phosphorous ratio in his meals? What is the ratio of meat-to-grain, grain-to-vegetable in his meals? If a company advertised to you that they had created a one-a-day brick of food that was the most complete-and-balanced meal you could offer your child, would you buy it? Would you believe it? Of course that’s ridiculous; we know that as long as you provide your child a wide variety of quality whole foods, he’ll do fine! And that some processed lump of conglomerate ingredients and chemically-derived nutrients, with no day-to-day variety, would be a poor choice for you baby. Now, why would your dog, another omnivore, be any more complicated than your own kids?

http://colliefarm.wordpress.com/2008/07/05/more-thoughts-on-homemade-dog-food/

Check Out Ellen!!!

elen



Dear Fellow Pet Lovers: Ever since I can remember I’ve loved animals. All kinds. Dogs, cats, birds – catbirds. All of ’em. When I was little all I wanted to be was a vetranar…a veteranari…it’s hard to spell…I wanted to be a vet. I thought that would be the best job in the world: helping and being with animals all the time. Well, it turns out I became a comedian and a talk show host instead – but animals are still my passion…oh and also a nice, thin crust, cheese pizza.

One of the things I really believe is that if you’re going to have pets you should treat them like you’d treat yourself. I don’t mean you should treat them to new shoes or a fancy car – I’m talking about the basics; a nice bed, fun toys and good food.

Anyway a few years ago I was looking for some pet food for one of my dogs who was allergic to everything…honestly, even his own fur. I tried everything, our vet tried everything and finally I found a little company that had the perfect food for him. It’s called Halo, Purely for Pets.

So, because I think Halo is incredible, I decided to become part owner in hopes that all animals have the chance to be the healthiest they can be. And I’m anxious to spread the word so that everybody knows about Halo.

Besides making what I consider to be the best pet care products in the world, we also want to inform everybody on how to take great care of our pets. So try us out. Write us and let us know how your pet is doing. Are they dating? Do they have a newspaper route? Let us know. And help us get people thinking about what they’re feeding their pets. Maybe you can casually mention Halo to a few people. Nothing obvious. Work it into a conversation. Like say, “Halo” to people (instead of Hello) and then subliminally they’ll try “Spot’s Stew”.

Well, I have to go clean out the cat box. Thanks for your support and giving your pet the love and care they deserve.

Love,
Ellen DeGeneres Signature

Ellen DeGeneres announces her partnership with Halo Pets.

Halo, Purely For Pets
Illustration of a man with dog, cat, and ball

Halo - the world's best natural pet care products

At Halo, our focus is simple and unwavering: your pet’s well-being. That’s why our products have been the “Gold Standard” in holistic pet care for over 20 years.

Our wholesome, natural dog food and cat food are made from the highest quality ingredients. Our entire line of pet foods, treats, supplements and grooming supplies are made with real ingredients that support and help maintain your pet’s immune system.

Your pet deserves to be vibrant, happy and healthy — inside and out. With Halo products, it’s guaranteed. That’s why we say that Halo products are “the care we owe them.”

Halo products were not affected by pet food recalls.

New Products & New Look!

Halo proudly introduces a whole NEW look and a New line of dry food products for your pet.

Learn more about the changes at Halo

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Dog Food Analysis & Grading

To grade any dog food using this dog food comparisons technique, you need to start with the list of ingredients (it’s fairly easy to find an ingredient list for any particular food on the manufacturers website, or use the one on your dog food bag etc.)

Start with a grade of 100 points, then …

For every listing of “by-product”, subtract 10 points

For every non-specific animal source (“meat” or “poultry”, meat, meal or fat) reference, subtract 10 points

If the food contains BHA, BHT, or ethoxyquin, subtract 10 points

For every grain “mill run” or non-specific grain source subtract 5 points. If the same grain ingredient is used 2 or more times in the first five ingredients (i.e. “ground brown rice”, “brewer’s rice”, “rice flour” are all the same grain), subtract 5 points

If the protein sources are not meat meal and there are less than 2 meats in the top 3 ingredients, subtract 3 points

If it contains any artificial colorants, subtract 3 points

If it contains ground corn or whole grain corn, subtract 3 points

If corn is listed in the top 5 ingredients, subtract 2 more points

If the food contains any animal fat other than fish oil, subtract 2 points

If lamb is the only animal protein source (unless your dog is allergic to other protein sources), subtract 2 points

If it contains soy or soybeans, subtract 2 points

If it contains wheat (unless you know that your dog isn’t allergic to wheat), subtract 2 points

If it contains beef (unless you know that your dog isn’t allergic to beef), subtract 1 point

If it contains salt, subtract 1 point

Extra Credit:

If any of the meat sources are organic, add 5 points

If the food is endorsed by any major breed group or nutritionist, add 5 points

If the food is baked not extruded, add 5 points

If the food contains probiotics, add 3 points

If the food contains fruit, add 3 points

If the food contains vegetables (NOT corn or other grains), add 3 points

If the animal sources are hormone-free and antibiotic-free, add 2 points

If the food contains barley, add 2 points

If the food contains flax seed oil (not just the seeds), add 2 points

If the food contains oats or oatmeal, add 1 point

If the food contains sunflower oil, add 1 point

For every different specific animal protein source (other than the first one; count “chicken” and “chicken meal” as only one protein source, but “chicken” and “fish” as 2 different sources), add 1 point

If it contains glucosamine and chondroitin, add 1 point

If the vegetables have been tested for pesticides and are pesticide-free, add 1 point

Scoring

94-100+ = A
86-93 = B
78-85 = C
70-77 = D
69 = F

The Effectiveness of Preservatives in Homemade Dog Treats/Prevent Mold

 

The Effectiveness of Preservatives in Homemade Dog Treats    

 

Objectives/Goals

The main objective was to find out how long it takes my dog treats to spoil and then figure out which preservative (Tocopherol, Benzoate, and Propionate) works the best. I hypothesized that Tocopherol would be the most effective because it is commonly found in Kirkland Dog Treats and other grainy foods such as Cheerios and granola bars, which have ingredients similar to my dog treats.

Methods/Materials

1. Four groups of cookies (8 in each group) were made each containing either Tocopherol, Benzoate,

Propionate, or no preservative (control)

2. Incubate all 4 groups of cookies at high humidity (85%) and temperature (95 degrees).

3. Observe the cookies for mold growth for 9 days

4. Remove and freeze one cookie from each group at day 0, 3, 6, and 9

5. Determine bacterial content in each of these samples by plating onto petri dish followed by incubation and visual counting of bacterial colonies.

Materials included: whole wheat flour, chicken stock, oatmeal, egg vegetable oil, petri dishes, sterile water, test tubes, preservatives (Benzoate, Tocopherol, Propionate). Equipment included incubator and digital scale.

Results

The first part of the experiment in which the cookies were placed in the incubator to speed up spoiling, the control cookie (without any preservative) developed mold by the third day. By Day 9 mold was covering 80% of the control cookie but was not seen on any of the cookies with preservative. The second experiment was to measure bacterial content. By day 3, all of the samples except the one with Tocopherol grew colonies of bacteria (the control sample had very many colonies). On day 6 and 9 all of the preservative samples had similar, but small numbers of colonies. The control sample showed more and more colonies on days 6 and 9.

Conclusions/Discussion

This project showed that preservatives can prevent spoilage of homemade dog treats. By two measures (visual mold growth and bacterial content) all three of the preservatives worked well preserving the dog treats for a longer time period compared with the dog treat without any preservative. However, it is possible that Tocopherol preserved them slightly longer. One possible reason for this is that Benzoate and Propionate are recommended to be used with low pH values. My cookies were at a pH level of 6.